Modern DSLR lenses don’t typically have aperture rings; while opening and closing the aperture is the sole responsibility of the camera.
If you need to keep the sharp aperture frames locked in a specific position for reasons unknown, the “lens bend stunt” can assist you with doing that.
Twist the lens from the camera while holding the depth of the field review button.
A simple Guide to Lock Aperture On Nikon Lens
Source: https://www.dpreview.com
Background
If you block electrical signals to the lens, it will stay at a constant aperture. This dramatically simplifies the task of controlling exposure in 5D2 video. You can then lock it at any aperture, ISO, and speed using simple methods.
Existing methods for this include rotating the lens or taping the contacts. When turning, the lens may fall off, and the tape may get stuck inside the camera.
Preparation
I went to a craft store and bought a thin film of Mylar. I think acetate will work too. It does not have to be transparent. I took the cap off the back of the lens and applied a film to it.
I then used an Exacto knife to cut the inside of the lens edge and create a perfectly sized disc that would fit the barrel.
In this case, not a single lens was damaged. I inserted the disc into the mounting hole and installed the lens. The film was thin enough that I didn’t feel any extra stress when spinning. At this point, viewing through VF showed an ugly movie (yes). But the F-Stop showed 00, which is what I wanted.
Then I cut a rectangle in the middle of the disk to match the rectangular hole in the bracket. I put the film back on, turned it over to keep the light out, and put the lens back on. This time, the VF showed a clear image. I checked the edges carefully to make sure there was no film on the image.
Usage
Insert the lens without film. Adjust the iris as desired. While holding down the depth of field preview button, remove the lens. Throw the film properly rotated, reattach the lens, and you have a blocked lens.
I find this to be less of a problem than buying Nikon lenses and using them with an adapter.
A Detailed Guide on How to Lock Aperture On Nikon Lens
Most modern DSLR lenses don’t have an aperture ring with which you could set the gap; relatively, the camera body’s opening and closing are constrained.
This is all fine when you use the lens ordinarily (as planned); however, it loses all electrical contact with the camera when you mount a lens. This makes different lenses act differently.
One practical use for this stunt is time-slip by photography. Cameras don’t, in every case, close the aperture to the very same size for each shot, and the slight variation can cause a glimmer in the subsequent time-pass video.
Lenses with manual aperture control are pretty easy. You set the lens wide open, center, set the necessary gap, and snap the photo. The focus is to keep the camera consistent, so the focus doesn’t shift with camera development when you attempt to stop down your lens.
It relies upon whether you need the camera to control the gap of the lens.
This all hails back to the way that Nikon lenses can be used with cameras that can completely control the gap lens easily, just as cameras, where the lens gap is set on the lens using the gap ring and the camera, commands the lens to stop down to whatever opening is set by the ring.
You will see a small switch called the gap switch. This switch is essential for a mechanical connection between the lens and the camera body.
How about we look at the camera body?
You will see that there is a bit of “arm” (identified as “opening switch”) off to one side (when looking at the lens mount of the camera). This arm fuses with the switch on the lens to actuate the opening development.
This is all-important for the first F-mount coupling plan created in the late 1950s and is carried on to now. However, back then, the camera consistently moved that arm ultimately through its movement. The lens opening ring is what halts it at a specific spot.
When you mount the lens, the arm and switch are in a situation to completely open the gap to allow the most significant measure of light into the camera.
The default position of the switch is shut (to whatever setting the gap ring is assigned to), so the arm at first presses down on the switch, which opens the gap.
When the shade is delivered, that arm moves, and makes the switch strain accordingly, allowing it to shut down to the gap ring setting.
On current Nikon cameras and particularly on Nikon DSLRs, the camera can handle how far that switch is moved by continuously stopping the arm. This controls the end of the aperture easily from the camera.
However, to do this dependably, it needs to have the opening ring (which gives a mechanical square in the lens) be moved far and give the arm complete development control.
This is completed by setting the opening ring to the smallest gap (most elevated f-stop esteem).
The Nikon D7000 gives you the alternative of allowing the camera to control the lens gap (default) or gives control back to the lens gap ring. This setting can be found in CSM f6.
Nikon, then again, still offers components of old (gap ring) and new (microchip) technology in its D-series lenses. To use D-series lenses on new camera bodies, lock the opening ring on the lens to its most elevated f-number (smallest gap), then, at that point, control the gap from the camera. Disregard the opening ring in this configuration.
Further developed Nikon DSLR bodies, for example, the D600 let you enter the focal length and large gap of considerably more seasoned lenses (check your manual for the specific type) into the camera’s menu.
These lenses are called non-CPU lenses. Entering the data empowers the camera to meter, perceive the gap set by the lens, and control the blaze better.
Shutter speed lock is accessible in shutter auto and manual openness modes. The aperture lock-in auto and manual openness modes. Shutter speed and aperture lock are not accessible in modified auto openness mode.
Source: https://www.photo.net
Not all applications of the Lock tools are unintentional
You may, here and there, need to lock the controls if you have dialed in the specific opening you’d prefer to use with the object that you don’t unintentionally transform it. The lock can be highly valuable in situations where a wayward openness change could lose the whole shoot.
Try not to hesitate to use it purposefully when all is good and well. Up to that point, if you find that your camera will not allow you to change the gap and it’s showing a dubious “L” message at the top of the LCD, have confidence that your camera isn’t broken — you need to open the dial on the rear of the body.
If you’re keen on taking a stab at Exposure Lock, most camera producers make it genuinely easy. On Nikon cameras, the button says “AE-L/AF-L” and is located about an inch from the right-hand side of the camera (on the back), while Canon’s button is somewhat more modest and set apart with a reference mark.
You can even redo it on specific cameras with the goal that openness is locked until you snap a photo or as long as you press the button. Sony, Pentax, Olympus, and others have this button as well; however, its precise appearance and location differ depending upon the maker and model.
The Exposure Lock button is a decent device to have available to you. However, it’s not precisely equivalent to shooting in Manual mode while reading your light meter to ensure your aperture is nailed definitely how you need it.
However, it’s a phenomenal method to change your aperture easily, without changing any metering modes or other shooting boundaries. You can regularly use it when you need to cover or uncover the scene when there’s no other option, and when you get the hang of it, you may think it’s valuable likewise.
A new way to lock aperture on an EF lens
Source: YouTube video
In-camera
If you’re using a more automatic scene or mode, you pick the depth of field you need, and the camera chooses an appropriate opening. For instance, if you pick Landscape, you’re telling the camera that you need a considerable depth of field. It’ll stop down in a like manner.
When you comprehend why certain scenes require specific depths of field, you should begin setting the aperture easily yourself.
A few cameras, similar to the Canon EOS 60D and Nikon D3200, have shooting modes that let you select the measure of obscureness you need in the photograph. The ordinary calls its mode Creative Auto, while Nikon uses a shooting mode called Guide.
Lenses like those from LensBaby are an exemption from these guidelines. If you’re using its lenses, you change the aperture by exchanging gap rings with a unique, attractive instrument.
Standard Lenses – Locking the gap of EF and EF-S lenses
Standard EF and EF-S lenses default their most significant gap (wide open/least f-number) when gotten off the camera. This is how a standard 50mm f/1.8 looks when it’s removed from the camera.
If you use this lens turned around, then you will discover you will be working with a highly shallow depth of field, which will work for certain subjects and won’t be enough much of the time. The secret to using modest apertures to get an expanded depth of field is fundamental by doing the following:
- 1. Mount the lens typically on a camera
- 2. Turn on the camera
- 3. Set the camera to Manual (M) mode
- 4. Set the aperture wanted
- 5. Descent the lens while holding down the Depth of Field Preview button and Lens Release button.
- 6. Let the camera be on while the lens is being removed.
Reducing the depth of the field button makes the lens stop down to the set gap and when you remove the lens while keeping the depth of field button squeezed, you are successfully locking the lens aperture at that setting.
The lens iris will stay at the set gap and will possibly return to typical when you remount the lens and correct way round on your camera.
One problem with this method is that the camera is on when you remove the lens, and electrical charges on the sensor can attract dust.
Nikon G Series and Other Lenses
Nikon lenses act differently than ordinary lenses. For instance, the aperture on the Nikon G Lens spring stacked, making the gap edge shut down to its base gap the second you take it off the camera.
So the issue with Nikon lenses is that it’s hard (practically tricky) to see through the viewfinder when it is conversely mounted, and using the lens completely stopped down will likewise decrease picture quality because of diffraction.
That is why you need to figure out how to lock a gap someplace in the center, not completely open and not completely shut.
Nikon G lenses need the gap antenna to open, so it is set up to remain open.
Look for a tab standing out at the back of your lens; it ought to be in an opening, and it slides about an inch or thereabouts. Locate it and move it with your finger to verify whether it controls the opening frames.
If so, you could lock the gap at any setting by embedding a small thing made of paper or a piece of a business card or anything comparable that will cozily fit in. It ought not to be free, so it slides off and is not very close, so it harms the lens.
One alternative methodology which may take a little practice to dominate is to hold open the tab with your finger and deliver it when shooting.
Statistics
Source: Photography Life
Conclusion
Are you an enthusiast of the aperture lock button, or do you have some other photography tips to help your interested friends that own a camera to get photographs that are of best quality?
Leave your comment below.
